Some anglers prefer to wade in the water to catch their fish, whereas others prefer to go into the deeper waters in a fishing boat. Wading in the water may give some fishermen a high because of their proximity to the fish that they are going to catch, but it is not always safe to do so, and staying in a boat to catch your booty is a much better bet. Prior to setting out on a fishing trip it is always safe to make sure that your boat is in good working condition and will not suddenly break down in the middle of the water and leave you stranded. Selecting a boat should also be done according to your needs and should be given a lot of time and thought and not something that you should do in haste.

1. Buying a Sports Boat

While thinking of buying a boat you should keep in mind the safety and comfort of those who will be on it. Sports boats offer both safety and comfort and are very popular as they can be used not only for sporting purposes but also for other activities too or for just enjoying the time spent on water. There are many kinds of water sports and you should take part in various activities so that the rest of your family can also enjoy themselves while you are out on a fishing expedition. So consider wake boarding and skiing apart from fishing for your dinner.

2. Different Types of Boats You Can Choose

Fishing boats that are made for shallow water and can hold only two people are called Skiffs. These boats are made for smaller areas of water and can be operated easily in the water. Skiffs are used the world over for rivers and small lakes.

Light tackle boats can be used for any kind of fishing and can accommodate 4 people on it. The main benefit is that the fishermen can move around on the boat as there is enough space. Some kinds of catch require the fishermen to walk around on the deck and this boat has enough space for movement. Being bigger it is also sturdier for bigger catch and is more comfortable for the fishermen to maneuver around.

An offshore boat is required for a deep sea fishing expedition. These offshore boats are around 35 to 45 feet in length and can hold 6 people on board. These boats have to be built strong so that they can withstand the pull of the bigger fish and also the thrust of the ocean water.

A head boat or party boat is also used for fishing expeditions. These boats are built larger and can hold many more people. The party boat offers a lot more of comfort and luxury so that your guests can fish enjoy the water and also relax. Party boats are used for family get together and picnics.

3. Selecting The Best Fishing Boat For You

The novice fisherman or the experienced one can both find a fishing boat that is suitable for their needs and that can be handled by them easily. In case you are not sure as to what kind of boat you should buy, you should read up about the different kinds of fishing boats and see what suits your requirement the best.

http://www.outdoorlife.com/photos/gallery/fishing/2009/06/best-boat-names

Self-sufficiency represents the single greatest character trait missing from the general American populace today. Society lives with the attitude that if they mess up somehow, someone will come rescue them, so why worry?

Most people passionate about traveling offshore don’t suffer from this self-reliance flaw. They plan. They execute. They return safely. They live to head offshore another day. The U.S. Coast Guard motto, Semper Paratus (Always Ready), applies to every boater, not just the Coast Guard. And not only does being ready mean having all the likely spares aboard that you might need, it also means having the tools to swap them out and the knowledge of how to do it. Here are the most common solutions boaters are likely to face.

• Bent/Broken Prop
If you have two engines on your transom, you can always limp back on one. If you sport a single, you’d better have a spare prop, an extra hub kit and a prop wrench. Actually, it’s always better to have a spare wheel for each engine — remembering of course that counter-rotating engines use different propellers. And one other item: You should probably also carry a diving mask, snorkel and fins aboard. (Be sure to tie to your wrist any tools you use in the water.) This can often make changing a propeller easier on an outboard, and even remotely possible on inboard vessels. The latter will also require a gear puller. If you can make it home at all on an inboard boat with damaged props, do so. Changing such props at sea can be difficult and very dangerous in any kind of waves.

• Fouled Fuel Filter
If you haven’t experienced this problem, you haven’t been boating for very long. Especially in today’s petrochemical world of ethanol-enhanced fuel, clogged fuel filters are commonplace. Steve Lee, global brand manager for large outboards for Mercury, says you can either remove the filter and clear as much water and detritus as you can or simply replace the filter if you have the spare. Spares are cheap ($30 to $35), and you should have at least one or two for each engine.

• Water Pump Not Working
For livewells and washdowns, it behooves you to carry a complete spare pump. Changing out a water pump on an outboard offshore means dropping the gear case, so don’t plan on doing that. Fortunately, water pumps on outboards represent one of the items least likely to fail.

If you run an inboard boat, be sure to have spare impellers and grease for each pump aboard. Changing an impeller is not that difficult. Simply remove the flat plate covering the impeller, carefully remove the split ring from the shaft and use pliers to pry the impeller (and pieces of it) from the pump. Remember which way the rubber impeller blades bent in the housing. Grease up the new impeller, and while bending the rubber blades in the same direction as the ones you removed, slide the new piece into place. Replace the split ring, make sure the gasket is still usable or replace it, and screw the plate back in place.

• Electronics Down
Many recreational boat owners honestly don’t know how to navigate (I don’t mean you personally of course — those other guys). However, they can and do know how to place the cursor of their electronic chart plotter on their desired destination and click “Go To.” And since they don’t know about set and drift, setting up a crab angle and the like, as their steering director continues telling them they are drifting off course, they simply hit “Go To” again and again. Do they eventually get to their destination? Sure, albeit via the great circle route, but they get there. Taking an online course on how to actually navigate would be a real benefit. Short of that, knowing where you are at any given moment will allow you always to have a general idea of a compass course home and how far home actually might be from you. Of course, a simple and inexpensive handheld GPS solves the problem instantly. Add to that a waterproof handheld VHF and a personal locator beacon, and you will never need to worry about faulty electronics.

• Engine Not Running
Again, if you have two (or more) engines, this shouldn’t pose too great an inconvenience. Simply head back home at a slower speed. You may want to carry a prop for each engine that is two inches lower in pitch. If you actually lose one of your engines, that smaller pitch lets you spool up and get on plane more easily and run home on one engine at something closer to normal cruising speed.

Single-engine vessel owners face different decisions. Those two decisions include: (1) Fix it and get it running again; or (2) call for a tow. And since the Coast Guard no longer gives free towing assistance in nonemergency situations, there’s no excuse for anyone to be offshore without a subscription to Towboat US (www.towboatus.com) or Sea Tow (www.seatow.com).

Troubleshooting for No. 1 should follow a logical path. It takes several ingredients for an engine to function: fuel, air, spark. Subtract any one of these and your engine stops. When troubleshooting, start at one end of a system and work your way to the other end. For example, if you think your problem is fuel, start with the fuel filter. If that’s clear, continue to check the path to the engine from the fuel tank to see where the blockage has occurred. Diagnosing air and spark issues can be handled similarly.

• Trailer Issues
Many anglers trailer their boats, and the trailer itself can often be the weak link. Brakes and bearings can corrode and fail. Tires can degrade and fail from naught more than sitting idle in the sunlight. Connections and bulbs in lights that submerge each time you launch and retrieve your precious cargo can fail. The tension put on your winch cable can cause the cable to snap — always at the most inopportune moment. Frequent inspection and preventive main-tenance can help you avoid most of these problems.

Suggested Spares and Spanners Stockpile

We suggest that you keep a written inventory of your spare parts, noting where on board you have stored them.

Owner’s manuals
• Waterproof flashlights with spare batteries
• Spare horn(s)
• Spare propeller for each engine
• Replacement bulbs for running lights
• Fuel filters (several in case you have a serious contamination problem)
• Oil filters
• Water-pump impellers and gaskets (with gasket cement)
• Engine oil and lower-unit lube (if  applicable)
• Fan belts (if applicable)
• Coolant
• Zinc pencil anodes for engines
• Tapes (electrical, duct, Teflon)
• Hose clamps
• Injectors for half the number of cylinders (diesel inboards)
• Spare alternator and starter (inboards)
• Hydraulic fluid, spare hoses and funnel
• Spare transom plug (if applicable)
• Enough nonspoilable food and water  for two days

Electrical Tools
• Ohmmeter, wire cutters, electrical tape, selection of connectors with crimping tool, battery-powered soldering iron and solder
• Handheld GPS, VHF, PLB

Mechanical Tools
• Some Neanderthals believe men and women are born with knowledge of what should be in a comprehensive tool kit. If you weren’t, the kit should include: pliers, vise grips, screwdrivers (flat and Phillips) wrenches, hammers (rubber and metal) hacksaw, serrated-edge knife, snap-ring pliers, duct tape, WD-40, cordless electric drill with bits.

Trailer Parts
• Bearing grease with Zerk gun, set of new bearings for each wheel, spare lightbulbs, flasher relay, towing ball with lock washer and pin, spare tire, jack and tire iron, bungee cords, flares.

Use a push-button spin-cast reel, but be flexible on how they fish. You may have planned to start with a bobber (float) and live bait, but you may find your budding angler wants to continually cast and reel. Instead of insisting on him sitting still and quiet, tie on an artificial ultra-light lure that they can cast and reel to their heart’s desire.

Teach basic skills like casting, knot tying and baiting the hook. Help a first-timer remove the hook from a fish. Hooks are sharp so supervision is advised. Some fish have sharp spines so be careful. Don’t let a good experience turn into a painful one. Recognize all successes and achievements such as putting a bobber on or making a great cast. Always give pats on the back and never make discouraging comments.

If the youngster becomes impatient or bored, take a break and explore other
wildlife and the natural surroundings. Point out birds, frogs, turtles, flowers,
trees, insects and other items of interest. Bring the camera to preserve the memories.

Other recommended items are sunglasses, a hat, insect repellent, and a trash bag to leave the place cleaner than you found it. Make fishing outings quality time. Leave the cell phone in the car or packed away for emergencies. Use fishing as a time to communicate and be together.

Don’t stop after one trip. Repeat trips will keep the fishing bug alive. Even if you don’t catch any fish, don’t let the day end on a negative note. On the way home, talk about the fun you had and how you can try again another day.

NJ Boating Safety Video for Kids

Spring fishing is here, are you ready? Angling success is to some degree a matter of luck. Or is it? Successful anglers are more than just lucky, they are prepared. Your tackle and equipment are crucial for success. This is the time of year to organize and tune up your equipment. Nothing can be more disappointing than getting to your favorite spot and realizing your reel doesn’t reel, your rods are missing an eyelet or the fishing line that came with your reel has turned itself into a tangled mess.

Paying close attention to the condition of your equipment will improve your fishing success and help make your trip more enjoyable.

Fishing Line – Line should be replaced at least once a year, especially if it has been subjected to extreme heat from being left in a vehicle or in the storage hull of a boat. There are many excellent “mono” lines available. When choosing fishing lines there are several factors to consider. All monofilament line has a “memory”. The longer the line has been on a spool the more it resembles a slinky. Purchase a good quality line with a small diameter, and low visibility. For trout, 4 to 6 pound line should be sufficient in most cases.

If you are going after larger fish, you will want to increase the weight of the line. Fishing line is rated by the break strength of the line (referred to as # Test). Many sporting outlets and bait shops can replace the line for you. Often, this is cheaper than replacing it yourself because you only pay for what you need. You are assured the line is spooled properly and the old line is recycled, preventing it from making its way to a landfill.

Reels – Fishing reels do not need to be expensive to catch fish, but they do need to be cleaned and lubricated at regular intervals. If reels are subjected to excessive dirt or sand, they must be cleaned to prevent sticking or possibly damaging internal parts. Cleaning and lubricating is a fairly simple process, which is usually covered in the owner’s manual.

Cleaning is done by removing the line spool and either rinsing or using a small soft brush to remove dirt or debris. A good quality reel lube that has Teflon in it and displaces water should be lightly applied to moving parts. Most bait shops offer this service if you do not want to attempt this yourself.

Rods – Fishing rods should be inspected to insure the rod tip and line guides are not broken or damaged. Replacing a broken rod tip or line guide is easy and inexpensive. There are repair kits available that include several different rod tips for different diameter rods. The kits include ferrule cement that comes in stick form and can be melted with matches or a lighter and dabbed onto the rod tip. The new tip is then slipped over the glue and the end of the rod. Make sure it is lined up correctly before the glue hardens.

If the tip is not straight, simply heat the rod tip with a match or lighter and position correctly. Replacing line guides is a little more time consuming, but well worth the effort. Line guides may be purchased either single or in packages with various sizes, they are either single or double footed. Remove the damaged or broken line guide and old thread; position the new guide on the rod. Place the end of the thread under the foot and wrap the thread tightly from the end of the foot to the guide. Once the foot is wrapped with thread secure the loose end of the thread with a piece of tape to the rod. Be sure the guide is in-line with the other guides. Coat thread with epoxy or clear fingernail polish and trim excess line once hardened.

Please Note: Braided line can damage rod tips or guides if they are not ceramic or made of a hard material. It is not advised to use braided line with plastic guides.

Tackle – Check your tackle to be certain you have everything you will need for your planned trip. Many times moisture will invade your tackle box leaving your hooks and lures, rusty and in some cases unusable. Dull or rusty hooks are inefficient and should be either cleaned and sharpened or properly discarded. Old Power Bait, salmon eggs or fish attracting scents that have been exposed to hot sun or extreme cold, for prolonged periods of time, will become ineffective and should also be discarded.

To start a list of what kind of provisions you think you’ll need, draw up a menu with a weeks worth of meals your boating crew would enjoy. Then figure out what would be required to make each meal. This list should be a good base to build from when you actually start buying items for the boat trip.

Be sure to have some very simple to prepare meals. When weather is rough, and the boat galley is an unworkable environment, some pre-packaged meals that require no heating will be a saving grace.

Keep an eye out for foods that will stay fresh for long periods of time, or are packaged in such a way as to say fresh longer. Cheese that is packaged in wax, will stay good for a very long time. Some salami, sausage and pepperoni that is keep in the non-refrigerated section of the grocery store will stay good for months at a time.

Anywhere you can find a place to store snacks, be sure to take advantage of it. Boating always seems to make people hungry, but doesn’t always seem to provide the opportunity to stop what your doing and make something fancy. Healthy snacks will be better to fuel the fires that keep the crew and the boat going.

Be careful of what foods you store together. They’re not always compatible. Apples and carrots stored together, will often cause bitterness in the carrots. If onions are stored with potatoes, the onions will steal moisture from the potatoes.

Most fruit should be bought in the not-yet-ripe state, and then stored in a way to slow down the ripening process. Green apples stored in the dark should last a couple of weeks.

Give some thought to were you store items in the boat. Storage lockers closer to the hull and below the waterline will be cooler, and better for produce. Especially if you are going to be boating in warm tropical areas.

While there is a lot to consider, some thorough and logical planning will make things smoother come launch day. And while you may forget a few items, or lose a few perishables in transit, don’t fret. It’s only a thousand and two miles to the nearest grocery store.

The largest, most popular and most northern canyon in the state is the Hudson.. The Hudson Canyon is a V shape bite out of the ocean’s bottom that runs from it’s narrow NE point and widens as it drops off into the continental shelf.. The tip of the Hudson lies about 70 miles due east of the Manasquan inlet. The Gulf Stream warm water eddies well up along the canyon walls and makes for the perfect spot. Much of the water surrounding the canyons tip is 200 feet and drops quickly down to 600 feet on its sheer walls. It then takes a fairly steady drop and widens out until it reaches 6000 feet. Best way to describe it is the Grand Canyon under water…. Now that’s what I call structure and your best bet is to fish its ledges.

Time of Year:

Southern canyons usually start up a bit earlier then their northern peers, usually in June/July. Northern canyons usually start getting hot in July/August with the best months being September/October.

How To Catch Them:

• The general rule of thumb is daytime trolling in the early season and daytime trolling and nighttime chunking later in the season.
• Trolling is done at relatively higher speeds of 6 to 7 knots and concentrated around structure like steep drop of canyon walls. Larger boats will run as many as 9 lines. Each out rigger will have 2 lines (long and short) and a teaser. You will also run 2 short lines off the line clips on the stern and one line down the middle way back in your spread for big guys. The lures usually are a mix of skirted Ballyhoo, Islanders, Spreader Bars and a Green Machine with a Birdie down the middle.
• Chunking is done pretty much exclusively at night and later in the season when the water temps are warmer. You can either drift or anchor. Drifting is very effective if there is a small amount of wind and current. You throw cut pieces of Butter Fish or “Chunks” over to create a chunk slick to attract Tuna and keep them with you when the come into your area. You hook a whole Butter Fish, Sardine or Squid below an egg sinker running through your main line. The amount of sinker weight depends on the current.. You want just enough to keep you line straight down from the boat. It’s best to hand feed the line out so you can put it down to a specific depth by counting the number of pulls. 1 foot per pull. You want to put your lines down at various depths to see what works best. The first line is down 30 feet or so and then others in 50 foot deeper increments.
• Jigging is also a very effective method. Butterfly jigs are dropped down to the target depths and jigged. These outfits are typically very light weight rods and reel with colored braided line marked at 20 foot increments so you can judge what depth your are jigging.
• These fish hit like a freight train and where there is one there are others. You need to be sure and preset your reel drags and be prepared. Tie up some rigs ahead of time to maximize your time in the water if you get into a good bite.
• Lights on board and in the water will greatly enhance your chances since they attract bait and the bait attracts the Tuna. This is especially true for the Tuna’s favorite bait, Squid. You want to try your best to snag or net as many live squid as you can and use them as your hooked baits. Live Squid in general is the most productive bait for Tuna.

Best Places To Catch Them:

• The most northern canyon is the Hudson, which is 70 miles due east of Manasquan Inlet. The other major canyons south of the Hudson are the Carteret, Toms, Spencer, Lindenkohl and Willmington.
• Some years we get a shot at the Tuna inshore of the Canyon in the Mudhole area, bu the canyon fishery is typically much more productive and consistent.

Some Fishing Tips:

• Be sure to keep your Butter Fish chunking steady to build a long contiguous slick. It’s best to throw handful of chunks out at timed intervals like every 2 minutes.
• When on the chunk keep a close watch for marks on your depth sounder. If you see consistent marks at a certain depth try to adjust your lines to that depth.
• When you land a Tuna the first thing you want to do is bleed the fish. This keeps the meat white and tasty.
• Make sure the boat you are fishing on has a permit and you know the regulations since they change frequently.
• When party boat fishing, you usually anchor so try and find a spot in the stern.
• When trolling you and your crew need to keep a constant watch. If you get one fish hooked up chances are you will hook several more.
• When chunking it’s best to work the lines… You pay out line manually to the desired depth and if you get no bites, reel it in and try again. If you just get the line down to the depth and leave it the pole in the holder you are typically not going to get as many strikes.
• Most people use circle hooks. If you are using them DO NOT set the hook on a bite. Simply engage the drag and let the fish hook itself.
• If you are trolling it’s good to keep a few pitch poles set aside with bait on them… Often times when you are trolling for Tuna you can get a Marlin to come up into the spread. You want to be able to tease him in with your trolled lures and teasers but pitch him a bait so your are fighting him on the outfit you would prefer to fight him on.
• Get lots of sleep. Tuna trips can be long and tiring
• Unless you, your boat and crew are equipped for this sort of fishing, its best left to the experts on Party and Charter Boats… They have all the safety and fishing equipment, a big hold to keep the fish on ice, a license and the knowledge to identify the specific species of Tuna and what the current regulations are for size, quantity and species. Since they fish often they also have the best intelligence as to where the fish are to increase your odds of catching.
• Tuna can sometimes be very line shy. If there are fish in the area try using a lighter leader and always use fluorocarbon.

Thieves are always on the lookout for easy targets. Many boat owners take a lackadaisical approach when it comes to their property. Do not make yourself and your boat an easy target. You can make your boat less of a target if you follow these simple steps:

• Never leave anything valuable on display, however small and insignificant it may seem. Thieves steal first and think about the value later.
• Don’t leave equipment or other items loose in the cockpit or on deck.
• Don’t leave your engine key in the ignition; always take it with you.
• Keep your other boat keys separate from your engine keys.
• Always keep your boat locked when no one is on board, even if it is for a short time.
• Use strong casehardened padlocks or rim locks on all your hatches, entry points and cockpit lockers.
• Consistently check and think of ways to improve the security on your boat. Do not take security for granted.
• It is a good idea to install an alarm and use a visible sticker to say that one your boat has an alarm system.
• Make sure your cockpit lockers are properly secured, and check that your main hatch and fore-hatch are strong, making it harder for thieves to get access to the interior.
• Also, think about having a strongbox or a hidden safe down below. If you don’t think something is secure, get it fixed.

IMPROVE YOUR SECURITY

Once you’ve tied up alongside, always do a quick security check before going ashore.

Always:

• Lock anything valuable out of sight in a strong locker secured by a strong casehardened padlock.
• Lock up any emergency money away from other valuables. A hidden safe can be handy here.
• Keep your curtains closed so that no-one can look in.
• Keep unused ropes, fenders and other items out of sight in your cockpit, lockers and cupboards and always lock them.
• Make sure that your life raft and outboard motor are secure, as these are valuable and attractive to boat thieves.
• When you go ashore using a dinghy, always remove your oars or paddles, row locks or pump, and secure the dinghy with a strong chain and padlock.
• If you are the victim of boat theft, call the police immediately and tell the harbor master or boatyard manager. Check to make sure that your boat is still seaworthy and hasn’t been badly damaged.
• And, if you can, check that neighboring boats haven’t been broken into as well.

Get to know other boat owners in your marina and work as a team to keep the marina secure. As a team or marina watch you can do the following:

• Keep an eye on other boats, as well as your own.
• Report any strangers at the marina to the harbor master or yardmaster.
• Don’t give your marina access card or key to other people for any reason.
• Never tell anyone else the access code to the marina.
• Don’t allow strangers into the marina, however genuine they may seem.
• Keep the marina gate closed at all times.

Don’t hesitate to act on these recommendations today. Tomorrow may be too late. Always remember that thought, planning and intentions are great but in order to accomplish anything you must take action.