• keeping a safe prescribed distance from military and commercial ships
• avoiding commercial port operations areas,
• observing all security zones,
• following guidelines for appropriate conduct such as not stopping or anchoring beneath bridges or in a channel, and
• observing and reporting suspicious activity to proper authorities.

100-Yard-Approach WARNING!

Do not approach within 100 yards of any U.S. naval vessel. If you need to pass within 100 yards of a U.S. naval vessel in order to ensure a safe passage in accordance with the Navigation Rules, you must contact the U.S. naval vessel or the Coast Guard escort vessel on VHF-FM channel 16.

You must operate at minimum speed within 500 yards of any U.S. naval vessel and proceed as directed by the Commanding Officer or the official patrol.

Violations of the Naval Vessel Protection Zone are a felony offense, punishable by up to 6 years in prison and/or up to $250,000 in fines.

Boaters Can Help Keep Our Waterways Safe and Secure…

Keep your distance from all military, cruise line, or commercial shipping! Do not approach within 100 yards, and slow to minimum speed within 500 yards of any U.S. naval vessel. Violators of the Naval Vessel Protection Zone face 6 years in prison and a $250,000 fine, not to mention a quick and severe response. Approaching certain other commercial vessels may result in an immediate boarding.

Observe and avoid all security zones. Avoid commercial port operation areas, especially those that involve military, cruise line or petroleum facilities. Observe and avoid other restricted areas near dams, power plants, etc. Violators will be perceived as a threat, and will face a quick, determined and severe response.

Do not stop or anchor beneath bridges or in the channel. If you do, expect to be boarded by law enforcement officials.

Keep a sharp eye out for anything that looks peculiar or out of the ordinary. Report all activities that seem suspicious to the local authorities, the Coast Guard and the port or marina security. Do not approach or challenge those acting in a suspicious manner.

Safer boaters help reduce public demands by permitting Marine Patrols to focus their limited resources on Homeland Security.

For more information on security zones and how you can help, call the Coast Guard at 800-368-5647 or go to the USCG website at http://www.uscgboating.org

ALWAYS neatly coil or flemish excess line both on the dock and onboard. This not only looks more professional but can prevent someone from tripping over a loose line and falling. Guess who would be at fault if it were your line they tripped over?

ALWAYS turn off all AC breakers on board, then turn off the breaker and disconnect the power cord from the dock first. You will see many people undo the power cord from the boat and then hand it to, or worse yet, carry it off the boat to the dock. One slip and they are in the drink with a live wire.

ALWAYS make sure you turn off all outside lights, instruments, and VHF radio. There is nothing more un-neighborly than a light shining on the boat in the next slip or the VHF blasting loudly while you are out for a late night at the local pub.

NEVER connect a dock water supply to the pressure side of the water system on your boat. Not even with a pressure-reducing valve. This is an invitation to sink your boat.  All you need is for one of those hose clamps to quit, or a flexible section to rupture and there is an unlimited supply of water to fill your boat. Far better to fill your water tank periodically using a hose and using the onboard water pressure pump to supply your requirements. Now if there is an accident, no more water can come on the boat than was already there and you can’t sink. Keeping your pressure pump working on a regular basis is also better for it. Nothing kills pumps quicker than being idle for long periods.

And while on the subject, NEVER have a water tank that overflows anywhere onboard. Plumb the overflow overboard or to a drain which always runs overboard because, sooner or later, you will go ashore and forget you left the hose filling the tank!

How much fuel you need to carry depends on the design of your boat and the intended use. In a sailing vessel, for instance, a 50 gallon tank of diesel feeding a 25 hp auxiliary engine cursing at 80 percent of top speed could propel a 33 foot sailboat 300 miles at 7 knots in calm weather.

That same amount of fuel would take a twin engine 40 foot sportfisher only about 33 miles at 40 knots. This boat would need 450 gallons to cover 300 miles at that speed.

Planing hulls need much more power than displacement hulls and use more fuel per mile. However their ability to carry fuel is limited because their planing ability is affected by weight.

Many naval architects build in as little tankage as possible taking into consideration the design of the boat, reasonable usage and the distance between refueling stops in and around its normal area of operation.

How much does it weigh?

Gasoline weighs about 6.1 pounds per gallon. Diesel weights about 7.1 pounds per gallon. Both gasoline and diesel engines use about 0.6 pound of fuel per horsepower per hour. On average, diesel fuel contains about 140,000 BTUs per gallon or 10 percent more energy than the same volume of gasoline.

Where does it go when it is consumed?

Your engine uses the fuel you purchase in several ways.

• 35 percent is given up to the atmosphere in heat
• 25 percent is given up in heat and vibration absorbed by surrounding water
• 10 percent is given up to overcome wave resistance
• 6 percent to overcome wave formation and prop wash against the hull
• 7 percent to overcome skin friction
• 2 percent is wasted in friction at the propeller shaft
• 1 percent to overcome air resistance

This leaves about 13-14 percent of the original energy to turn the propeller.

How much do gasoline and diesel engines consume?

Diesel engines consume about 1 gallon per hour for every 18 hp used. You can estimate the number of gallons consumed per hour by multiplying horsepower used by 0.055.

Note: An engine at cruising speed usually uses only about two-thirds of its maximum available horsepower. Most marine engines are designed to run continuously at between 60 and 75 percent of maximum speed. Diesels tend to be more toward the top of the range.

Gasoline four stroke inboard engines need about 1 gallon per hour for every 10 hp used. The number of gallons consumed per hour can be estimated by multiplying horsepower used by 0.100. (see note above)

Outboards might use considerably more since two stroke motors seem to have a greater thirst than four stroke motors.

What about fuel economy?

Any attempt to force a displacement hull beyond its maximum theoretical hull speed brings exponentially higher fuel consumption for minimal gain in speed. On the other hand, slowing down a little almost always is rewarded by gains in economy, and thus range. This same principle applies to high-speed planing hulls as well but only up to the point at which they start to come off plane. Once off plane they tend to lose efficiency.

How about fuel reserves?

Use the old rule of thumb; Use one-third of the fuel in your tank to get there, one-third to get back and save the last third as an emergency backup.

Boating, as a recreational sport, has been around for over 300 years. During this time many customs and traditions have been developed in order to help relieve the natural stress that comes with dealing with the elements. No matter how long you have been boating there is always that tense feeling when you are out there on your own. If this feeling ever goes away, you should probably take up golf. Whether underway, anchoring, mooring, docking at a marina or cruising with friends, don’t add to the stress of your boating neighbor by ignoring custom and tradition.

Underway

Obviously, the rules of the road are going to dictate how you operate your vessel underway in order to prevent collision. But what if no risk of collision exists, are you then free to do whatever you want when operating in the vicinity of other vessels? Above all, remember that you are responsible for you own wake and any damage done by it.

When overtaking a slower vessel in open water, do so with as much room as depth conditions allow and slow your speed, if necessary, to avoid rocking the other vessel. There is nothing worse than being below in a slow trawler or sail boat, cooking breakfast, and being suddenly overtaken in close quarters by a loud, wake-throwing, go-fast boater. Especially if the wake causes the hot bacon grease and coffee to be thrown around the galley.

It should be remembered that sometimes the boat being overtaken may need to slow its speed to accommodate the overtaking vessel. If you are proceeding at 8 knots, the passing boat can only slow to about 10 knots to still have enough speed difference to pass successfully. However, at that speed the overtaking vessel still throws an uncomfortable wake. You may need to slow to 4 knots to allow the overtaking vessel to pass at 6 knots which allows for a much smaller wake.

If you are overtaking a vessel under sail, if possible, overtake them well to leeward or pass astern in a crossing situation, so as not to block their wind.

Anchoring and Mooring

Be sure to enter an anchorage or mooring area at a slow speed. This is like moving into a new neighborhood. You want your neighbors to like you. Again, you don’t want to create a wake that would upset someone’s dinner or drink.

Remember that the first person in the anchorage has the right to determine the swing radius. Don’t get too close to other anchored boats. The wind can change and in a matter of minutes you can have fouled and tangled anchor lines, and hulls and dinghies banging against each other. I’ll never forget the commotion caused one night off the Bitter End in the BVI when a late-arriving boat anchored too close to another. The shifting wind at 0300 caused them to tangle with one another and soon there were two angry and burly boaters on deck, sans clothing, but armed with spotlights, shouting and cursing while blinding each other with the lights. Not a pretty sight! Speaking of spotlights, if you need to use one, make sure you don’t inadvertently blind your neighbor.

Before anchoring evaluate your intended behavior; the more music, people on board, children, pets and smoke from your barbecue that you intend to create, the further downwind you should be from your neighbors. Sound carries exceptionally well over water and many boaters retire early for an early departure. Respect their right to sleep in peace. Also, remember that any comment you make may be heard.

If you are using your dinghy at night to go to shore or visit others in the anchorage, do so using oars and not your outboard. How far could the shore be if you’re anchored in ten feet of water? Some boaters are friendly and like to socialize, while others are reflective and just want to be left alone. If you are rowing around the anchorage and see people on deck, you should be friendly but not intrusive unless, of course, encouraged. Tradition dictates that if you approach another vessel you should do so on the starboard side six to ten feet away. If you strike up a conversation and you recognize by the tenor of the strangers that they really aren’t interested, just move on out of their space.

Make sure you get permission before picking up a guest mooring. It may be reserved for another boater arriving later on or it may be unsuitable for your vessel.

Marina Manners

When you stop for fuel, keep in mind that other boats may be waiting to get to the fuel dock. Do not leave your boat to pick up groceries or hang out in the bait shop. Tie up securely, follow proper fueling procedures, pay the bill and move away to another docking area or guest slip if you need to do other business ashore.

If you are already safely docked in the marina and there is no dockmaster or helper around to assist boaters as they dock and undock, it is courteous to assist others in your vicinity with their lines. This may sound like an oxymoron, but boating is like a fraternity of individuals. Everyone has a right to their space but everyone provides assistance whenever necessary.

Make sure to keep the area around your slip clear. Roll up and stow hoses, place power cords in such a manner as to not trip a passerby who is looking up at your new radar reflector. Keep buckets, mops, tackle, docking lines and other items stowed in their proper place, not strewn around on the dock. When finished with carts or other equipment at the marina intended for common use, be sure to put it back where it belongs so others have access.

Tips For On Board Guests

Whenever you invite guests aboard for the day, a weekend or an extended cruise, you should explain to them in advance what is expected of them, especially if they are not experienced boaters. If they are expected to perform duties onboard make sure they know this (and how to do it) before you give the order to swab the deck or handle lines. If you have special “rules” regarding behavior on your boat (smoking, drinking, etc.), let them know before they arrive.

Instruct your guests to bring a minimum of clothing appropriate for the climate in which you will be operating as well as your final destination. Make sure each guest has a good pair of non-skid deck shoes. If your plans are to go ashore for activities other than lying on the beach, make sure they bring something more appropriate than a swimsuit and thongs. Explain the problem of limited space on your boat and ask them to pack their gear in a duffel bag or other soft-sided and collapsible luggage.

If you are planning to visit foreign ports, be sure to let your guests know in advance what documents and ID they need to bring and make them aware of any local customs they should know about.

When quests arrive, assign a locker to each where they may stow their gear and make clear that everything should be kept in its assigned place. It could be dangerous or impair the operation of your boat to have clothing and other gear floating around loose.

Make sure your guests know that your times of departure are based on tide, current, weather conditions and time to make the next destination. You should explain that they should be onboard, have gear stowed and be ready to leave well before the departure time you have set.

Explain also that the time to rise and shine is based on the convenience of everyone aboard and the cruising plans for the day. You, as skipper, should be the first to rise and the others should follow shortly after. Make guests aware of the limited washing and toilet facilities on the boat and instruct them to be time considerate to others. Also instruct them thoroughly on the use of the marine head and the importance of water conservation when cruising between destinations. Make clear, also, when you announce in the evenings that it is time to retire everyone should do so.

Familiarize your guests with safety and emergency procedures before leaving the dock. Explain fueling procedures, docking and undocking plans, etc. Make sure someone onboard is able to take over for you and operate the VHF radio to ask for help should you become disabled.

By being up front, honest and direct with your guests everyone onboard will have a safe and more pleasurable trip.

Most recreational boaters don’t have any idea what it is like to maneuver a vessel of this size. Most assume that because of the modern electronics, the experience of the captain, pilot and crew and the power of the vessel that the 800 footer can, and will, just turn to avoid a recreational boater who inadvertently zips into its path unaware of its presence. The fact is, even at a slow speed of say four knots, a loaded 800 foot tanker can take a quarter mile and seven minutes to stop. Worse yet, when the engines are put in reverse, the large tanker looses all steerageway.

In addition to the problem of stopping or maneuvering out of the way, the tanker has a blind zone which precludes them from seeing directly in front for up to 600 feet. If a recreational boater in a small boat disappears from view in front of the tanker their choices are limited; they can proceed and hope they don’t see wreckage in their wake or they can put the helm hard over and spill 100,000 barrels of crude oil into the channel.

Many recreational boaters assume that because large commercial vessels have radar that the commercial vessels will pick them up. Problem is, the signal has to come back to the ship’s radar in order for it to be seen. Even with a radar reflector, most small boats don’t show up beyond a mile or two. Without a radar reflector, you would be lucky to be seen beyond a quarter of a mile.

Most boaters today have VHF radios and they are not bashful about using them to find where the fish are biting or to carry on conversations about where they are going to have dinner. All large vessels are required by regulation to listen to VHF channels 13 and 16. The safest and most efficient way of communicating with a large vessel to confirm what they are doing, or to tell them what you are doing, is by radio. Better yet, stay clear of heavy traffic. This advice goes back to the rule of tonnage, i.e. “don’t tangle with a tanker.”

Although most people know that the trimming movement raises and lowers the bow, many are unaware that it also can effect steering and performance. When you trim your drive unit either “in” or “out” you may feel a pull on the steering wheel either to the right or left.

If the steering pull grows beyond a slight pull, an inadvertent release of the wheel can cause the boat to go into a sharp turn and passengers could be thrown around, or even out of, the boat. Be sure to keep a firm grip on the steering wheel.

The three positions of trim and results are as follows:

	Trimming In (Down) Lowers the bow Results in quicker planing, especially with a heavy load Improves ride in choppy water Increases steering torque or pull to the right
	Neutral Trimming Lowers the bow Normally results in greater efficiency. (Note that the propeller shaft, which connects the propeller to the drive shaft, is parallel to the surface of the water.)
	Trimming Out (Up) Lifts the bow Increases top speed Increases clearance in shallow waters Increases steering torque or pull to the left In excess, causes the boat to bounce

Undocking Plan

Prior to getting underway, you should implement an undocking plan with the help of your passengers. You should consider the traffic in the area, the direction of wind and current and the depth of the water.

When the wind or current is pushing your boat away from the dock the procedure is simple.

1. Cast off lines and pull in fenders as the wind blows you away.
2. When clear and safely away from the dock and other boats, shift to forward and depart at idle speed.
3. Be careful to make sure you have been pushed safely away and that the stern will not hit the dock as you motor forward and turn. Remember: A boat does not steer like a car, it pivots on its axis.

If the wind or current is pushing your boat toward the dock you will have to do some extra planning.

1. Cast off all lines except an after bow spring line. This line will keep you from moving forward and allow the stern to pivot away from the dock. (see illustration)
2. You may want to use a fender forward to cushion the bow of the boat against the dock.
3. Turn the motor or rudder to the direction necessary to push the stern away from the dock.
4. Shift into forward at idle speed. Slowly, very slowly.
5. The stern will swing away from the dock. When it is clear of all obstacles and traffic, cast off the spring line and back away from the dock.
6. When you are safely away, shift to forward and idle away from the dock.

Once you are clear of the dock, stow lines and fenders so they will not be in the way or pose a tripping hazard. Be sure to control speed when leaving the dock and check for other boats, swimmers or other obstacles.

Docking Plan

Before approaching the dock, one end of the docking lines should be secured onboard; fenders readied and speed reduced.

If the wind is onshore (blowing toward the dock), the boat is brought to a position parallel to the dock and about two feet off. The wind will blow the boat in. It can then be secured by bow, stern and spring lines.

If the wind is offshore (blowing away from the dock), you should approach the dock at a 20 to 30 degree angle. A bow line is passed ashore and secured. In boats with an outboard, or inboard/outboard engine, the engine is turned towards the dock and put in reverse. This will bring the stern into the dock. The boat can then be secured with the stern line.

The procedure is different for boats with inboard engines. The rudder will be used to bring the stern in. To push the stern in using the rudder, attach an after bow spring to keep the boat from moving forward. With the engine idling forward, turn the wheel away from the dock as illustrated below. Since the boat cannot move forward and the rudder is pushing the stern in, the boat will pin itself against the dock while you secure the other lines. All maneuvers are more easily accomplished if the boat has twin engines, rather than a single engine.

The first step in anchoring is to select the proper anchor. In spite of claims to the contrary, there is no single anchor design that is best in all conditions. On most pleasure boats, the three anchors you will find most are the fluke or danforth type, the plow and the mushroom anchor.

Mushroom anchors do not have the holding power of a fluke or plow anchor and should only be used on small, lighter weight boats. A local marine supply store can help you select the proper anchor for your boat and for the waters in which you will be boating.

Anchors also must have something to attach them to the boat. This is called the anchor rode and may consist of line, chain or a combination of both. The whole system of gear including anchor, rode, shackles etc. is called ground tackle.

The amount of rode that you have out (scope) when at anchor depends generally on water depth and weather conditions. The deeper the water and the more severe the weather, the more rode you will put out. For recreational boaters, at a minimum you should have out five to eight times (5 to 1 scope for day anchoring and 6 to 8 to 1 for overnight) the depth of the water plus the distance from the water to where the anchor will attach to the bow. For example, if you measure water depth and it shows four feet and it is three feet from the top of the water to your bow cleat, you would multiply seven feet by six to eight to get the amount of rode to put out.

• Select an area that offers maximum shelter from wind, current, boat traffic etc.
• Pick a spot with swinging room in all directions. Should the wind change, your boat will swing bow to the wind or current, whichever is stronger.
• Determine depth and bottom conditions and calculate the amount of rode you will put out.
• If other boats are anchored in the area you select, ask the boat adjacent to the spot you select what scope they have out so that you can anchor in such a manner that you will not bump into the neighboring vessel.
• Anchor with the same method used by nearby boats. If they are anchored bow and stern, you should too. If they are anchored with a single anchor from the bow, do not anchor bow and stern. Never anchor from the stern alone, this could cause the boat to swamp or capsize.
• Rig the anchor and rode. Check shackles to make sure they are secured with wire tied to prevent the screw shaft from opening.
• Lay out the amount of rode you will need on deck in such a manner that it will follow the anchor into the water smoothly without tangling.
• Cleat off the anchor line at the point you want it to stop. (Don’t forget or you’ll be diving for your anchor.)
• Stop your boat and lower your anchor until it lies on the bottom. This should be done up-wind or up-current from the spot you have selected. Slowly start to motor back, letting out the anchor rode. Backing down slowly will assure that the chain will not foul the anchor and prevent it from digging into the bottom.
• When all the anchor line has been let out, back down on the anchor with engine in idle reverse to help set the anchor. (Be careful not to get the anchor line caught in your prop.)
• While reversing on a set anchor, keep a hand on the anchor line. A dragging anchor will telegraph itself as it bumps along the bottom. An anchor that is set will not shake the line.
• When the anchor is firmly set, look around for reference points in relation to the boat. You can sight over your compass to get the bearing of two different fixed points (house, rock, tower, etc. ) Over the next hour or so, make sure those reference points are in the same place. If not you’re probably dragging anchor.
• Begin anchor watch. Everyone should check occasionally to make sure you’re not drifting.

• Retrieve the anchor by pulling or powering forward slowly until the anchor rode hangs vertically at the bow.
• Cleat the line as the boat moves slowly past the vertical. This will use the weight of the boat to free the anchor and protect you from being dragged over the bow.
• Once free, raise the anchor to the waterline.
• Clean if necessary and let the rode dry before stowing away.

Boats, like all organisms – living or non-living are subject to the vagaries of nature. Time will take its toll and your much prized possession can lose both its shine and value.

One of the most important aspects of keeping your boat spic and span, shining and new is to give attention to boat covers. They play a pivotal role in keeping dust, snow, rain or mildew at bay. All these are sources of corrosion and can affect the boat adversely. While many boat covers are available in the market, the best option is the custom fit boat cover. Rated high on the scale of customer satisfaction, they are designed for specific boat styles.

So, before venturing out for shopping for your custom fit cover, keep a few things in mind. First of all, you need to get exact and accurate measurements of your boat using a non-stretching tape. Look around you and do a survey of the fabrics most popular for boat covers. This will give you an idea of what to choose from. The popular range of options includes 50/50 polyester marine fabric or any soft fabric such as 100% waver polyester along a non-waver polyester back.

Choosing the right fabric for your customized boat cover is very essential because only a fabric with the required amount of strength and flexibility will be able to keep away the UV impacts, mildew and the prevent the process of rusting, which would set in the boat sooner or later because of its constant contact with water.

Getting your first boat may not be as difficult or as financially draining as you probably think. Before heading out for a purchase, first browse catalogues and brochures to get good ideas on the boat model that is right for your specifications. If you plan to make your boat a party place, you may have to provide for guest rooms. The price of the boat depends on its size and on the sophistication of its control and navigating systems. For your first boat purchase, however, it may be advisable to consider a previously owned unit. You can later on improve on its electronics and mechanical devices. With proper and good maintenance, most boats will last for decades. Remember, though, that boats, like all vehicles, must meet government standards for safety. Make sure that the boat you will purchase meets the U.S. Coast Guard’s basic safety standards

The next step will be to visit your local bank. Some banks offer loans specific to purchases, such as boats. And they can provide you with assessors to help you appraise the true value of the pre-owned boat you are considering. Choosing the right bank can give you more flexible terms. There are also online lenders you may want to check out.

There also tax implications for boat purchases. You may want to check with your tax advisor or accountant about your options. There are loans that can be structured to incorporate tax benefits in your financing strategy. Your dealer should be able to advise you on the various financing strategies and their tax implications.