Category — NJ Boating Safety

In light of security measures brought about by the events of September 11, 2001, it is critical that all boaters be aware of and comply with homeland security measures set forth by federal, state and local governments. These should include, but are not limited to,

• keeping a safe prescribed distance from military and commercial ships
• avoiding commercial port operations areas,
• observing all security zones,
• following guidelines for appropriate conduct such as not stopping or anchoring beneath bridges or in a channel, and
• observing and reporting suspicious activity to proper authorities.

100-Yard-Approach WARNING!

Do not approach within 100 yards of any U.S. naval vessel. If you need to pass within 100 yards of a U.S. naval vessel in order to ensure a safe passage in accordance with the Navigation Rules, you must contact the U.S. naval vessel or the Coast Guard escort vessel on VHF-FM channel 16.

You must operate at minimum speed within 500 yards of any U.S. naval vessel and proceed as directed by the Commanding Officer or the official patrol.

Violations of the Naval Vessel Protection Zone are a felony offense, punishable by up to 6 years in prison and/or up to $250,000 in fines.

Boaters Can Help Keep Our Waterways Safe and Secure…

Keep your distance from all military, cruise line, or commercial shipping! Do not approach within 100 yards, and slow to minimum speed within 500 yards of any U.S. naval vessel. Violators of the Naval Vessel Protection Zone face 6 years in prison and a $250,000 fine, not to mention a quick and severe response. Approaching certain other commercial vessels may result in an immediate boarding.

Observe and avoid all security zones. Avoid commercial port operation areas, especially those that involve military, cruise line or petroleum facilities. Observe and avoid other restricted areas near dams, power plants, etc. Violators will be perceived as a threat, and will face a quick, determined and severe response.

Do not stop or anchor beneath bridges or in the channel. If you do, expect to be boarded by law enforcement officials.

Keep a sharp eye out for anything that looks peculiar or out of the ordinary. Report all activities that seem suspicious to the local authorities, the Coast Guard and the port or marina security. Do not approach or challenge those acting in a suspicious manner.

Safer boaters help reduce public demands by permitting Marine Patrols to focus their limited resources on Homeland Security.

For more information on security zones and how you can help, call the Coast Guard at 800-368-5647 or go to the USCG website at http://www.uscgboating.org

Many times we simply get complacent at dockside and don’t use our common sense. Following are a few tips that you should adhere to to make dockside boating safer and more pleasant for you and your dockside neighbors.

ALWAYS neatly coil or flemish excess line both on the dock and onboard. This not only looks more professional but can prevent someone from tripping over a loose line and falling. Guess who would be at fault if it were your line they tripped over?

ALWAYS turn off all AC breakers on board, then turn off the breaker and disconnect the power cord from the dock first. You will see many people undo the power cord from the boat and then hand it to, or worse yet, carry it off the boat to the dock. One slip and they are in the drink with a live wire.

ALWAYS make sure you turn off all outside lights, instruments, and VHF radio. There is nothing more un-neighborly than a light shining on the boat in the next slip or the VHF blasting loudly while you are out for a late night at the local pub.

NEVER connect a dock water supply to the pressure side of the water system on your boat. Not even with a pressure-reducing valve. This is an invitation to sink your boat.  All you need is for one of those hose clamps to quit, or a flexible section to rupture and there is an unlimited supply of water to fill your boat. Far better to fill your water tank periodically using a hose and using the onboard water pressure pump to supply your requirements. Now if there is an accident, no more water can come on the boat than was already there and you can’t sink. Keeping your pressure pump working on a regular basis is also better for it. Nothing kills pumps quicker than being idle for long periods.

And while on the subject, NEVER have a water tank that overflows anywhere onboard. Plumb the overflow overboard or to a drain which always runs overboard because, sooner or later, you will go ashore and forget you left the hose filling the tank!

How much do you need?

How much fuel you need to carry depends on the design of your boat and the intended use. In a sailing vessel, for instance, a 50 gallon tank of diesel feeding a 25 hp auxiliary engine cursing at 80 percent of top speed could propel a 33 foot sailboat 300 miles at 7 knots in calm weather.

That same amount of fuel would take a twin engine 40 foot sportfisher only about 33 miles at 40 knots. This boat would need 450 gallons to cover 300 miles at that speed.

Planing hulls need much more power than displacement hulls and use more fuel per mile. However their ability to carry fuel is limited because their planing ability is affected by weight.

Many naval architects build in as little tankage as possible taking into consideration the design of the boat, reasonable usage and the distance between refueling stops in and around its normal area of operation.

How much does it weigh?

Gasoline weighs about 6.1 pounds per gallon. Diesel weights about 7.1 pounds per gallon. Both gasoline and diesel engines use about 0.6 pound of fuel per horsepower per hour. On average, diesel fuel contains about 140,000 BTUs per gallon or 10 percent more energy than the same volume of gasoline.

Where does it go when it is consumed?

Your engine uses the fuel you purchase in several ways.

• 35 percent is given up to the atmosphere in heat
• 25 percent is given up in heat and vibration absorbed by surrounding water
• 10 percent is given up to overcome wave resistance
• 6 percent to overcome wave formation and prop wash against the hull
• 7 percent to overcome skin friction
• 2 percent is wasted in friction at the propeller shaft
• 1 percent to overcome air resistance

This leaves about 13-14 percent of the original energy to turn the propeller.

How much do gasoline and diesel engines consume?

Diesel engines consume about 1 gallon per hour for every 18 hp used. You can estimate the number of gallons consumed per hour by multiplying horsepower used by 0.055.

Note: An engine at cruising speed usually uses only about two-thirds of its maximum available horsepower. Most marine engines are designed to run continuously at between 60 and 75 percent of maximum speed. Diesels tend to be more toward the top of the range.

Gasoline four stroke inboard engines need about 1 gallon per hour for every 10 hp used. The number of gallons consumed per hour can be estimated by multiplying horsepower used by 0.100. (see note above)

Outboards might use considerably more since two stroke motors seem to have a greater thirst than four stroke motors.

What about fuel economy?

Any attempt to force a displacement hull beyond its maximum theoretical hull speed brings exponentially higher fuel consumption for minimal gain in speed. On the other hand, slowing down a little almost always is rewarded by gains in economy, and thus range. This same principle applies to high-speed planing hulls as well but only up to the point at which they start to come off plane. Once off plane they tend to lose efficiency.

How about fuel reserves?

Use the old rule of thumb; Use one-third of the fuel in your tank to get there, one-third to get back and save the last third as an emergency backup.

Have you, as a recreational boater, ever wondered what it would be like to act as pilot or captain of a large vessel. Let’s say your job was to bring an 800 foot tanker through a narrow channel into an inner harbor and eventually into its berth. What do you do when you see a small recreational vessel in your path? Worse yet, what if you don’t see the recreational vessel in your path?

Most recreational boaters don’t have any idea what it is like to maneuver a vessel of this size. Most assume that because of the modern electronics, the experience of the captain, pilot and crew and the power of the vessel that the 800 footer can, and will, just turn to avoid a recreational boater who inadvertently zips into its path unaware of its presence. The fact is, even at a slow speed of say four knots, a loaded 800 foot tanker can take a quarter mile and seven minutes to stop. Worse yet, when the engines are put in reverse, the large tanker looses all steerageway.

In addition to the problem of stopping or maneuvering out of the way, the tanker has a blind zone which precludes them from seeing directly in front for up to 600 feet. If a recreational boater in a small boat disappears from view in front of the tanker their choices are limited; they can proceed and hope they don’t see wreckage in their wake or they can put the helm hard over and spill 100,000 barrels of crude oil into the channel.

Many recreational boaters assume that because large commercial vessels have radar that the commercial vessels will pick them up. Problem is, the signal has to come back to the ship’s radar in order for it to be seen. Even with a radar reflector, most small boats don’t show up beyond a mile or two. Without a radar reflector, you would be lucky to be seen beyond a quarter of a mile.

Most boaters today have VHF radios and they are not bashful about using them to find where the fish are biting or to carry on conversations about where they are going to have dinner. All large vessels are required by regulation to listen to VHF channels 13 and 16. The safest and most efficient way of communicating with a large vessel to confirm what they are doing, or to tell them what you are doing, is by radio. Better yet, stay clear of heavy traffic. This advice goes back to the rule of tonnage, i.e. “don’t tangle with a tanker.”

It’s inevitable that when conditions are at their worst, you’ll have an audience. Prior planning and practice will not only keep you and your passengers safe and protect your boat, it will also help you avoid serious personal humiliation.

Undocking Plan

Prior to getting underway, you should implement an undocking plan with the help of your passengers. You should consider the traffic in the area, the direction of wind and current and the depth of the water.

When the wind or current is pushing your boat away from the dock the procedure is simple.

1. Cast off lines and pull in fenders as the wind blows you away.
2. When clear and safely away from the dock and other boats, shift to forward and depart at idle speed.
3. Be careful to make sure you have been pushed safely away and that the stern will not hit the dock as you motor forward and turn. Remember: A boat does not steer like a car, it pivots on its axis.

If the wind or current is pushing your boat toward the dock you will have to do some extra planning.

1. Cast off all lines except an after bow spring line. This line will keep you from moving forward and allow the stern to pivot away from the dock. (see illustration)
2. You may want to use a fender forward to cushion the bow of the boat against the dock.
3. Turn the motor or rudder to the direction necessary to push the stern away from the dock.
4. Shift into forward at idle speed. Slowly, very slowly.
5. The stern will swing away from the dock. When it is clear of all obstacles and traffic, cast off the spring line and back away from the dock.
6. When you are safely away, shift to forward and idle away from the dock.

Once you are clear of the dock, stow lines and fenders so they will not be in the way or pose a tripping hazard. Be sure to control speed when leaving the dock and check for other boats, swimmers or other obstacles.

Docking Plan

Before approaching the dock, one end of the docking lines should be secured onboard; fenders readied and speed reduced.

If the wind is onshore (blowing toward the dock), the boat is brought to a position parallel to the dock and about two feet off. The wind will blow the boat in. It can then be secured by bow, stern and spring lines.

If the wind is offshore (blowing away from the dock), you should approach the dock at a 20 to 30 degree angle. A bow line is passed ashore and secured. In boats with an outboard, or inboard/outboard engine, the engine is turned towards the dock and put in reverse. This will bring the stern into the dock. The boat can then be secured with the stern line.

The procedure is different for boats with inboard engines. The rudder will be used to bring the stern in. To push the stern in using the rudder, attach an after bow spring to keep the boat from moving forward. With the engine idling forward, turn the wheel away from the dock as illustrated below. Since the boat cannot move forward and the rudder is pushing the stern in, the boat will pin itself against the dock while you secure the other lines. All maneuvers are more easily accomplished if the boat has twin engines, rather than a single engine.

At some point in your boating career you will probably want to anchor. You may want to stop and fish, swim, have lunch or stay overnight. A second reason to drop anchor may be to control the boat if bad weather is blowing you ashore or if your engine has quit and the wind and current are pushing you into shallow water or other boats.

The first step in anchoring is to select the proper anchor. In spite of claims to the contrary, there is no single anchor design that is best in all conditions. On most pleasure boats, the three anchors you will find most are the fluke or danforth type, the plow and the mushroom anchor.

Mushroom anchors do not have the holding power of a fluke or plow anchor and should only be used on small, lighter weight boats. A local marine supply store can help you select the proper anchor for your boat and for the waters in which you will be boating.

Anchors also must have something to attach them to the boat. This is called the anchor rode and may consist of line, chain or a combination of both. The whole system of gear including anchor, rode, shackles etc. is called ground tackle.

The amount of rode that you have out (scope) when at anchor depends generally on water depth and weather conditions. The deeper the water and the more severe the weather, the more rode you will put out. For recreational boaters, at a minimum you should have out five to eight times (5 to 1 scope for day anchoring and 6 to 8 to 1 for overnight) the depth of the water plus the distance from the water to where the anchor will attach to the bow. For example, if you measure water depth and it shows four feet and it is three feet from the top of the water to your bow cleat, you would multiply seven feet by six to eight to get the amount of rode to put out.

• Select an area that offers maximum shelter from wind, current, boat traffic etc.
• Pick a spot with swinging room in all directions. Should the wind change, your boat will swing bow to the wind or current, whichever is stronger.
• Determine depth and bottom conditions and calculate the amount of rode you will put out.
• If other boats are anchored in the area you select, ask the boat adjacent to the spot you select what scope they have out so that you can anchor in such a manner that you will not bump into the neighboring vessel.
• Anchor with the same method used by nearby boats. If they are anchored bow and stern, you should too. If they are anchored with a single anchor from the bow, do not anchor bow and stern. Never anchor from the stern alone, this could cause the boat to swamp or capsize.
• Rig the anchor and rode. Check shackles to make sure they are secured with wire tied to prevent the screw shaft from opening.
• Lay out the amount of rode you will need on deck in such a manner that it will follow the anchor into the water smoothly without tangling.
• Cleat off the anchor line at the point you want it to stop. (Don’t forget or you’ll be diving for your anchor.)
• Stop your boat and lower your anchor until it lies on the bottom. This should be done up-wind or up-current from the spot you have selected. Slowly start to motor back, letting out the anchor rode. Backing down slowly will assure that the chain will not foul the anchor and prevent it from digging into the bottom.
• When all the anchor line has been let out, back down on the anchor with engine in idle reverse to help set the anchor. (Be careful not to get the anchor line caught in your prop.)
• While reversing on a set anchor, keep a hand on the anchor line. A dragging anchor will telegraph itself as it bumps along the bottom. An anchor that is set will not shake the line.
• When the anchor is firmly set, look around for reference points in relation to the boat. You can sight over your compass to get the bearing of two different fixed points (house, rock, tower, etc. ) Over the next hour or so, make sure those reference points are in the same place. If not you’re probably dragging anchor.
• Begin anchor watch. Everyone should check occasionally to make sure you’re not drifting.

• Retrieve the anchor by pulling or powering forward slowly until the anchor rode hangs vertically at the bow.
• Cleat the line as the boat moves slowly past the vertical. This will use the weight of the boat to free the anchor and protect you from being dragged over the bow.
• Once free, raise the anchor to the waterline.
• Clean if necessary and let the rode dry before stowing away.

Boating is one of the most enjoyable outdoor activities for people of all ages. Over time, boating has evolved into a safer activity, however much work still needs to be done in terms of safety education. Many recreational boaters make the mistake of assuming they can beat the odds, but without proper preparation this may not be the case.

Weather.  Careful consideration must be taken when determining the amount of effect the weather will have on your boating experience. Pay attention to the forecast ahead of time to make sure that bad weather is not approaching. Even while out on the water it is extremely important to pay attention to the marine forecast for your area as well as the colors and activity in the sky.

Electrocution.  Power lines are the most common cause of electrocution while boating. Proper care is rarely taken in ensuring that a metal part of the boat such as the mast touches a power line. This carelessness has led to many deaths or serious injuries over the years.

Man Overboard.  When someone falls overboard it is important to not immediately jump in after them to try to save them. Someone who is struggling to stay above water may unwittingly pull their potential rescuer under water with them. Instead, you should use the proper safety equipment such as safety buoys and rope which will float on the surface.

Hypothermia.  Hypothermia remains a large risk when boating in cooler waters. Someone who falls overboard could succumb to hypothermia thus limited their physical abilities and mental decisions. Their risk of survival drastically drops the longer they are in the water. Again, it is important not to jump in after them in an attempt to save them as the rescuer could themselves succumb to the cold waters.

Proper Equipment.  When planning for a boating trip it is incredibly important to prepare your safety equipment properly. This includes but is not limited to a flares, horn, water bailer and lifejackets. A trip plan is also an essential part of safe boating. A trip plan is basically contains information about where you plan to go boating. It should be filed with someone responsible that can take the proper steps should an emergency occur.

Lifejackets.  Lifejackets are essential for people of all ages. The misconception largely exists that if a child falls in the water an adult in decent physical condition will be able to save them. This is a very dangerous assumption as it is not always the case. Often a child that falls into the water will go below the surface of the water which means they may be hard to spot. Also, sometimes it is not immediately apparent that a child has fallen into the water. You may not even realize until it is already too late.

In conclusion, boating is a very enjoyable activity, however at no point should the safety aspects of boating be underestimated.

Thieves are always on the lookout for easy targets. Don’t make yourself an easy target. Always follow these simple steps.

- Never leave anything valuable on display, however small and insignificant it may seem. Thieves steal first and think about value later.

- Don’t leave anything loose in the cockpit or on deck.

- Don’t leave your engine key in the ignition – always take it with you.

- Keep your boat keys separate from your engine keys.

- Always keep your boat locked when no one is on board, even for a short time.

- Use strong padlocks or rim locks on all your hatches, entry points, and cockpit lockers.

- Constantly check and improve the security on your boat. It’s a good idea to fit an alarm and use a visible sticker to say that one is fitted.

- Make sure your cockpit lockers can be properly locked and check that your main hatch and fore-hatch are strong.

- Think about having a strong box down below. If you don’t think something is secure, get it fixed.

IMPROVE YOUR SECURITY Once you’ve tied up alongside, always do a quick security check before going ashore.

Always:

- Lock anything valuable out of sight in a strong locker secured by a strong padlock.

- Lock up emergency money away from other valuables.

- Keep your curtains closed so that no one can look in.

- Keep unused ropes, fenders, and other items out of sight in your cockpit, lockers, and cupboards – and always lock them.

- Make sure that your life raft and outboard motor are secure as these are valuable and attractive to boat thieves.

- When you go ashore from a dinghy, always remove your oars or paddles, rowlocks, or pump, and secure the dinghy with a strong chain and padlock.

- If you are the victim of boat theft, call the police immediately and tell the harbormaster or boatyard manager. Check to make sure that your boat is still seaworthy and hasn’t been badly damaged.

- If you can, check that neighboring boats haven’t been broken into as well.

- Get to know other boat owners in your marina and work together to keep the marina secure.

You Can Do The Following:

- Keep an eye on other boats, as well as your own.
- Report any strangers at the marina to the harbormaster or yardmaster.
- Don’t give your marina access card or key to other people.
- Never tell anyone else the access code to the marina.
- Don’t let strangers into the marina, however genuine they may seem.
- Keep the marina gate closed at all times.

A look at the various Marine Electronics on the market. What they do and how they work.

Autopilots The first self-steering gear was introduced in the 1920′s to control model yachts but it was not until 1948 that the principle was applied to full scale yachts. Standing at the helm for lengthy periods, monitoring instruments and keeping a good look out can be very tiring. An autopilot relieves the helmsman from steering the correct course leaving him free to maintain a proper watch. The autopilot can be set to either steer a compass course or a course relative to the wind. A fluxgate compass or electronic wind indicator feeds information to a microprocessor which then makes the necessary rudder movements to return the vessel to it’s required course. The mechanical power is applied to the rudder by either electric linear activators, hydraulic pumps or rotary drives. GPS/Chart plotters can be used to input navigational instructions to the autopilot.

Battery Chargers will keep batteries fully charged thereby extending their working life.

Chart Plotters Typically a chart plotter consists of an antenna, mounted high on the boat, to track GPS signals and a display unit sited either at the at the navigation station or the helm of the vessel. The vessels position is sent from the antenna to the display unit which in turn shows it graphically on the chart. The Chart itself will look similar to it’s paper equivalent and show depth, land mass, navigational aids such as bouys and potential dangers in the form of wrecks and obstructions. The user can add way points to the chart and zoom in and out of the display. Chart plotters can be connected to drive an autopilot and/or send GPS data to a fish finder or radar. They can also interface with a laptop enabling complex passage planning to be done away from the boat and then entered into the chart plotter after arriving at the boat.

Magnetic Transmitting Compasses work like traditional compasses using magnets to determine the vessels orientation to the earth’s magnetic field they then transmit the boats heading to an electronic display. They make steering easier than with conventional compasses because they display steadier headings and do not suffer from the “lag” that occurs when making a turn. They can interface with chart plotters, autopilots and radar. Fluxgate Compasses consist of two pieces of readily saturated magnetic material with coils wound round them in opposing directions. AC current is passed through the coils and the material is saturated in one direction and then the other. The earth’s magnetic field affects slightly the time at which saturation occurs, earlier in one coil and later in the other. The difference is then calculated giving an output proportional to the earth’s magnetic field. They are accurate to 0.1 of a degree. Their output can be displayed digitally to the helmsman or they can interface with autopilots, chart plotters and radar.

Echo Sounders work on the same principle as sonar. A transducer emits a narrow beam of high frequency sound. This is reflected by any solid objects and the time between transmission and receipt of the echo is measured. The speed of sound through water is know and so the range or distance to the sea bed can be calculated. That is then displayed in metres. Forward Looking Sonar (FLS) enables you to see the underwater hazards before you’re actually on top of them. A typical range for a FLS is 150 metres.

An Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB) is a piece of equipment designed to float free of a vessel in distress. It then sends a radio signal that can be detected by Search and Rescue Satellite Aided Tracking (SARSAT) satellites. They relay a message to a ground station that in turn can instigate a search and rescue operation.

Fish Finders use the same technology as sonar. A narrow beam of high frequency sound is transmitted by a transducer, this is reflected by solid objects such as the sea bed. By developing this technology fishfinders provide displays that show where the fish are and they can differentiate between bait fish and larger species

Global Positioning System (GPS Receivers) – This system was originally designed for military purposes and is owned and operated by the United States Department of Defence. 24 satellites are arranged in a “birdcage” around the globe, they are positioned in such a way that at any place on the earth’s surface a direct line of sight can be established to a minimum of 4 satellites. A fix is obtained by measuring accurately the distance between a satellite and the GPS receiver at a precise time. Because the exact position of the satellite is known, these distances provide position lines which are converted by a microprocessor within the GPS receiver to read outs of latitude and longitude.

The log is used to measure the boats speed through the water. A paddle wheel or impeller, mounted below the waterline is turned by the flow of water, this generates electrical impulses that are fed to a microprocessor that displays both speed and distance run.

Inverters – On most boats today you will find domestic equipment of one sort or another. For on board entertainment there are televisions and stereo systems. With the popularity of chart plotters comes the PC or laptop. Maintenance often requires the use of power tools. Liveaboards might have a washing machine, dishwasher or microwave. Can take 12v, 24v or 48v supply and convert it to a stable 110 v or 220v AC supply.

Navtex can perhaps best be described as a continuously updated telex service providing navigation and weather information within specified areas. An on board receiver, tuned to 518kHz, the worldwide Navtex frequency, if left turned on will either print out or display the latest massages sent from a local station. The service is available up to 400 miles from the coast.

Radar enables you to see what otherwise would be invisible. They offer greatest benefit at night and in fog or rain and are of particular value when close to shore or in busy shipping lanes. They consist of an antenna and a display. The antenna sends out a stream of RF energy which is reflected back off hard objects. When this energy is bounced back it is converted to a signal which displayed to the user. The antenna rotates every few seconds, the display continuously calculates the direction of the antenna and so a precise bearing to the target is calculated. The time is measured for the energy to be reflected and so the distance of the target is also displayed.

Satellite Phones consist of an antenna, a modem and a normal handset. They are powered by an iridium battery. Their range is anywhere covered by in Inmarsat Mini-M satellite. Voice, fax, email and data can be transmitted.

Satellite TV requires an antenna and of course a television. Reception is available within a “footprint” which is based on EIRP (Effective Isotropic Radiated Power) of a transmitting satellite. The EUTELSAT together with the two ASTRA satellites cover Europe. NILESAT and the two ARABSATs cover Africa and the Middle East. Good coverage is also available in North, Central and Southern America.

SSB Radio has a range of several thousand miles. You will need an FFC license, or the equivalent in whichever country you plan to operate it. Power consumption is a consideration. Up to 100 Watts may be required for transmission. SSB radio requires several items of equipment. A transceiver capable of SSB operation, An antenna, this must be 8 metres long and in practice most boats use a backstay or shroud for the purpose having fitted the necessary insulators. An antenna tuner matched to the transceiver model. If you want to send email you will also need and radio modem and computer.

VHF Radio The power required to transmit is minimal, all sets have the option of transmitting on either 1 Watt or 25 Watts and the lower power should be used whenever possible. Unlike telephones that allow you to both talk and hear at the same time most VHF sets require you to press a transmit button prior to talking. This is known as simplex. Duplex sets are available but are much more expensive. VHF radio waves travel in straight lines so the aerial should be mounted as high as possible, preferably at the masthead.